Tag Archives: Spring

PATTERN HACK // ARCHER OVERSHIRT

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Hello, dear reader!

Are you still out there? If you find yourself reading this, know that I’m eternally grateful for your time. I believe I’m not ready to ramble about my long absence yet (oh my, three years!), as I still haven’t made full sense of it myself. I trust that, in a few years, looking back in retrospect, it will all make perfect sense. And although I’ve thought about coming back to this little journal ever so often, it just hasn’t felt right – until now.

You see, I’m a self-proclaimed tomboy by nature, so the utilitarian feel of work wear truly excites me. From a rugged field jacket to a steel-toed work boot, I take any chance to dress like a mechanic, carpenter, fisherman, explorer! I believe the genius of workwear lies in its simplicity – made with extremely durable fabrics these garments will remain in your wardrobe for many seasons to come. And what they lack in frills they definitely compensate in functionality. So, using my trusty Archer pattern, I made myself a new layering piece inspired by the staple of the workwear world: the overshirt or shacket (shirt/jacket). It’s a very classic silhouette – an ideal choice for those cooler, transitional dog walks mid-spring. Yes, it’s perfect for explorations of all kind – dog walking being optional, but very much recommended.

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INSPIRATION: I noticed quite a few brands added overshirts to their collections this spring, common ground was to be found in construction and detailing (see modifications).

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Closed / A.P.C. / MHL / Filippa K

PATTERN: Archer button-up shirt by Grainline Studio

SIZING: I sized up three sizes (for an oversized look)

FABRIC: Soft khaki-hued cotton twill, bought at Stoffe Mahler and Liberty “Widdas Waltz” print Tana Lawn as collar/cuff/pocket accent

MODIFICATIONS: Sized up (three sizes are a little too much though), added patch pockets, used bigger buttons, added tower plackets (Archer Popover Variation Pack), flat-felled all seams, added a small brooch (Macon & Lesquoy radish bought at Papier Tigre) – optional, but very much recommended! Some more ideas: straighten bottom hem, add side entry pockets, add shoulder epaulettes, redesign cuff closure, add hidden button closure.

THOUGHTS: I believe overshirts aren’t sold to their full potential! Why, oh why are they hidden in the deepest corners of mountaineering shops? You need one – trust me! Even my boyfriend wants to steal mine – isn’t that the most thrilling compliment ever? The cotton twill is a little rigid, but it should start to soften up nicely. Some other fabric options I considered include: linen (so classy!), suede (so luxurious!), wool (so snug!), quilted (so toasty!), or nylon (so explorer!).

Yes, that’s it. I’d love to update this journal, but I’m not entirely sure if I’m back for good. I gravitate to the outdoors by nature, that – or I’m hiding in this little sewing nook of mine. So the administrative bits of keeping a blog tend to fog my mind in a very unpleasant matter.

Anyway, are you ready to board the #overshirtbandwagon this season? Remember: we are all explorers! Our mission is to observe the world around us as if we’ve never seen it before. Take note of all those little everyday wonders! Step away from the computer today! Explore, collect, document, copy, trace, repeat! Or make yourself a workwear inspired overshirt.

Or, breathe – my dear friends. Just Breathe.

That’s enough too.

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Love, always.

Louise

 

 

 

PROJECTS // QUILTED COCO JACKET

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Every spring, just as the first flowers begin to grow and unfold in our beautiful neighborhood, something strongly lures me to botanical prints. So I took a closer look at Liberty of London’s latest “Flower Show” collection, and of course I fell so very deeply in love with this breathtaking print by British artist Mary Fedden…. because just wearing it immediately transports me to a world of bright and joyful days!

And although the pattern I used clearly is an ode to the fabulous Coco Chanel (oh, how I adore her for the iconic boy-meets-chic style that she initially achieved by altering men’s clothes for herself – so very rebellious!), my version is more or less inspired by another Parisian designer, the wonderful Alix Thomsen. To say that her padded jackets have always been a great inspiration of mine is putting it pretty mildly. I actually find myself dreaming of a spontaneous trip to Paris every now and then, just to peruse through all of her beautiful pieces in person. Oh, wouldn’t that be fabulous?

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PATTERN: Coco by Schnittchen (a German independent pattern company)

FABRICS: Liberty “Abbey Pool” print tana lawn for the shell, black silk charmeuse for the lining, and Freudenberg #248 batting

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MODIFICATIONS: There actually will be another short blog post coming up in a few days, in which I plan to describe all the necessary steps for altering the original pattern to a quilted jacket (including pictures of the inside and translations of the pattern).

THOUGHTS: There are so many little things I love about this jacket; it’s hard to decide where to start. First of all, the jacket is neatly fitted for a very feminine silhouette. And the quilting adds an incomparably soft texture, too. The three-quarter length sleeves cleverly consist of two pattern pieces. All in all, it’s a beautifully drafted pattern! And even though I would prefer to see some diagrams in the (German) instructions, I would most definitely recommend this versatile pattern to anyone in need of a timeless cardigan jacket! Especially if you’re planning on making a quilted version, as there is no need for the instructions anyway.

Oh yes, I firmly believe that a casual jacket is an everyday must-have – not only does it help to get the cold out, but it also helps to add structure to any outfit! And I just can’t wait for it to get softer and softer with every wear…

Happy spring, everyone… it’s a promising time of year!

Love,

Louise